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February 18, 2003 — 3 PM

Onward March

There is a palpable sense of change in the air today. The third or fourth cold snap this winter in Montreal (with the noticeable absence of fluffy white) has abated, making room for a peaceful, light cloudiness and the promise, or at least the suggestion, or perhaps only the vague-yet-tangible notion of the coming spring. We'll take what we can get.

In other local news, I discovered a comprehensive Montreal restaurant guide, which makes a nice complement to montrealfood.com, a fine site that has recently returned fresh from lengthy neglect.

On the weekend I celebrated my second Valentine's (with Attagirl of course) with martinis and exquisite desserts at L'Express. If you visit Montreal, don't pass up a visit to this restaurant. Those of the non-meat/bird/fish-eating persuasion will have to settle for salad, cheese or just dessert, but then again, the cheesecake is worth a visit on its own merit. And the bartenders, who are of the old-fashioned friendly variety, mix very good drinks.

If you go, make a reservation (it's always busy), and/or sit at the bar (le comptoir) to better watch everyone else -- the quintessential Montreal pastime. The très français menu may be a bit intimidating to the non-francophone, but it features what I would consider the hallmarks of a good local restaurant: fresh, seasonal ingredients prepared with subtle flare.

You'll also notice the prices aren't stratospheric, the service is uncommonly good and the atmosphere, though tinged with Montreal's well-to-do, is convivial rather than snobby. The place is open from early morning until late night every day, so if it's full at 9, you can always come back at 12.

Bon appetit.

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Previously: Hearts

Subsequently: Shift Into Reverse

February 2003
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